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The vendor roots around inside the basket until his fist emerges clutching lumps of greasy meat. He smiles as he hands it to me on a paper plate. Some have become hotels, some are attractions. Palermo is truly the city of palaces. For visitors, there are plenty of gems to be found. There is Palermo Cathedral, which takes pride of place at the heart of the city. My favorite was the Capuchin Catacombs, where embalmed bodies, from as recent as the s, hang from the walls in full formal wear.
Palermo has been the seat of the Sicilian Mafia for decades and its effect on the region has been devastating. As happens when a criminal organization has a stranglehold of a city, it takes its toll. Business stays away, so do tourists.
City planning—also controlled by the Mafia—becomes a vehicle for crooked deals. City life disintegrates. You can see the physical manifestation of this in many of the shoddy apartment blocks that rim the historical center.
Throughout that period, the Mafia were at their peak. Bodies were showing up on the streets every day as rival families vied for control. But things turned around…and fast.
The murder of anti-Mafia magistrate Giovanni Falcone and, less than two months later, of his colleague Paolo Borsellino, shocked Italy into action. Within a week of the murders, 5, military personnel were dispatched to Sicily to fight a war against the Mafia. It turned out to be the beginning of the end. Since then, police have arrested more than 4, Mafiosi, including all the high-ranking bosses.